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samedi 14 juillet 2012

Petit mot

A mes quelques lecteurs : Je vous ai pas oublié loin de là mais mon nouveau travail (aux horaires dingues) me prend beaucoup beaucoup de temps d'où mon absence. Le blog sera donc moins actualisé ces prochaines semaines !

For my few readers : I didn't forget you at all but my new job (with its crazy working hours) is taking most of my time. My blog will be less upgraded the following weeks ! I'll try to post the most I can so stay tuned Xx

Anja Rubik by Glen Luchford

mardi 3 juillet 2012

Chanel is back.


As usual the Chanel show is expected as the snow in winter. Today Karl Laferfeld didn't broke his promise. I've never been so into Chanel before this show. The show opened with a tweed suit as most of the time and was then followed by not very exciting pieces. Blazers, long coats in tweed or with patchworks visual effects on. The whole seemed too déjà vu. We could have been afraid of a safe collection, again...


Models: Jamie Bochert, Mirte Maas, Anja Rubik, Saskia de Brauw.


But all of a sudden the collection turned into something more crazy. There were  sequins everywhere which is Karl's obsession even on tights. This aroused our curiosity making us wanting more and more of those crazy stuffs. Even this long sequined dress with pompoms sewed on  looked fab on the runway (not sure it will find its way to customers but Anna Dello Russo). 




Models: Sara Blomqvist, Julia Nobis, Mirte Maas, Meghan Collison.

 An amazing collection of blazers in the four shades of the show : black and white, grey and pink. Some outfits were risque while other were very safe. 

Models: xxx, Kendra Spears, Kati Nescher, xxx.

And some classic features of the house were seen as see-through blouses and extra long dresses with different shades of chiffon and tulle details.

Models: Kasia Struss, Marte Van Haaster, Anja Rubik.


Anyway as the silhouettes followed, the different shades softened, from coal to mouse grey and from raspberry to baby pink. It then  turned into pastel colours and finally into that statuesque and majestic white bridal gown. All the collection looked so pure, was he inspired by the Snow White wave ? 


Model: Lindsey Wixon.


It has been a while since we hadn't seen a Chanel show that amazing as the two last collections (rtw fall winter 2012 and resort 2013) were creativity lacking and on the edge of absolute weirdness. We hope Mr.Lagerfeld will stay in this perspective much more interesting. Here are our favourites (it was a tough thing to pick only few).

Models: Sui He, Kendra Spears, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Caroline Brasch Nielsen.


More favourites: Aymeline ValadeXiao Wen JuAndie ArthurSui Heunkown model.


lundi 2 juillet 2012

Christian Dior Haute Couture fall winter 2012-13



Today was big day for Raf Simons. It was his first show for Dior as a creative director so the pressure was at its highest point. The most influents people of the industry were attending the show. Among them : Tim Blanks, Edward Enniful, Franca Sozzani and Alber Elbaz. After 20 minutes of waiting, the music started and then that was it. The show opened with a black suit. The designer added some volume to the lower part of the jacket so that the hips looked more shaped. Red lips and green eyelashes nothing else, very minimalistic.

The next outfits followed and well it was um...boring even the audience looked sheepish. I was complaining about B.Gaytten but now I'm almost missing him. While I was pretty excited to  see what Raf Simons will do and how he would redefine the Dior aesthetic I've been a kind of disappointed. Everything from the proportions and the materials was screaming Jil Sander and not Dior at all. Especially the pants and the maxi skirts. Most of the outfits rather looked like ready-to-wear than Haute Couture.



Some of the outfits were too Jil Sander like because of the shapes...
1234.

Models: xxx,xxx, Sigrid Agren, Vika Faleeliva.


...while others were typically Dior. The coats and jackets looked good with those mettalic belts that underlined models's waist. Embroidered dresses were very elegant and classy. 

Models: Kinga Rajzak, Nastya Kusakina, xxx, xxx.

What it is complicated is that J.Galliano had a so big impact that most of people don't see the difference between J.Galliano and Dior real aesthetic. And that's why we found ourself disapointed with Bill Gaytten first collection while in fact he was doing a pretty good job and fitting the essence of the house.What we also have to not forget is that it is difficult for any designer who works for another house to find the right balance between the of the brand he's working for and his own vision and aesthetic. 

So it was not a bad collection but a safe one .Moreover it is a transitional period for Dior so it is hard to have a real opinion about the collection. It is as if Raf Simon was building the fundaments of the new era of the House. So let's give him a break and see what'll do next season.

Here are my favorite looks of the show: 

Models: Suvi Koponen, xxx, Julia Nobis, Jac.



dimanche 1 juillet 2012

Atelier Versace.

Alors que le défilé s'est fini il y a tout juste 1heure, voici les premières images ! Premier défilé de la semaine Haute Couture automne/hiver 2012, Donatella Versace a une fois de plus placé la barre haute.

As the show just ended an hour ago, here are the first picures ! First show of the Haute Couture FW fall winter 2012, Donatella Versace set the bar high once again.


Model: Karlie Kloss.

Models: Nimue Smit, Josephine Skriver, Ava Smith, Frida Gustavsson, Andreea Diaconu, Kasia Struss.


Models: Zuzanna Bijoch, Ginta Lapina, Sigrid Agren.

Pendant ce temps à la Fashion Week masculine.../Meanwhile at menswear FW...


Alors que la FW masculine se clôt, il faut dire que j'ai pas été déçue (peut être aussi parce que c'est la première fois que je la suis). Petit tour d’horizon des tendances qui m'ont marquées.

While menswear FW is ending , I haven't been quite disapointed (maybe because it is the first time I'm following it). Let's see what will be on the trend next summer.

Shining colors VS Monochrome.


Vu sur tous les podiums, les couleurs vives, pas étonnant vu que c'est l'été. Là où certains ont joué la carte de l’excentricité en mixant 3 voire 4 couleurs à la fois, d'autres l'ont joué safe en optant pour une pièce de couleur venant égayer une tenue un brun monotone. 

Spotted on all runways, bright colors are back given the fact it is summer it is normal. While some designers played the exentricity card combining 3 or even 4 colors all together, others played iy safe and chose to add only one bright piece to a monochrome outfit.

 Versace, Dries Van Noten, Moschino, Salavatore Ferragamo, Viktor&Rolf, Ann Demeulemeester, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Mugler, Jil Sander.

A l'opposé, chez Gucci et Ann Demeulemeester entre autre, le smoking monochrome était à l'honneur. Tentative d'uniformisation ou au contraire de distinction.

On the other side, monochrome tuxuedo were in favour as we've seen at Gucci and Ann Demeulemeester among others. I love the Mugler version.


Adventurer vs Intellect chic .

Remarqué aussi l'allure ultra viril de baroudeur de Bottega Veneta et Viktor&Rolf entre autre. Une allure qui contraste avec celle de gentil minet vu sur d'autre podiums.

 Viktor&Rolf, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Calvin Klein, Carven, Dolce & Gabbana, Ports 1961.

Faites bonne impression - Impress your peers.

1.Camouflage - Military Style.

 Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons, Kenzo, Valentino.

2.Flowers.

 Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Kenzo, Bottega Veneta.

 Calvin Klein (1 et 2), Dsquared², Jil Sander, Acne.

En version 90's total look, métrosexuel, trendy ou neo hipster faites votre choix !

Pyjamas - PJs are hot.

 Versace, Etro, Christopher Kane, Salvatore Ferragamo, Iceberg, Ann Demeulemeester.


Teddy Boy.

 Calvin Klein, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Versace, Burberry Prorsum.

Le teddy est toujours à la page, en version soft dans des tons neutres et naturels parfait pour un look élégant. On le retrouve également en version plus funky bicolore et bi-matière chez Burberry ou en version sky et excentrique chez Versace.

Ball jackets are still in the trend, we love it in neutral shades perfect for an elegant look. We've also seen it worn in a more exentric way as at Burberry and at Versace where it is made of sky with bright colors.

Accesories.

Qui a dit que les it-bags étaient réservés aux filles? Ceux làsont en passe de devenir les nouveaux compagnons de vos homme (et de nous aussi!)

Who said it-bags were a girl thing ? These ones will be your man new mate (and yours).

Malette et cabas Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry, pochette Burberry Prorsum, sac bagage en croco Bottega Veneta, malette Versace.





 Givenchy, Dsquared², Salvatore Ferragamo, Versace.


En parlant de it-pièces, ces chaussures seront aussi sur la liste. Ces spartiates Versace sont potentiellement un hit ou un raté.Si un homme arrive à les porter sans ressembler à un gladiateur c'est bon, sinon... J'adore les derbies/creepers avec imprimés léopard de Dsquared².

Talking about it-things, these shoes will be on the list too. Those Versace spartans can be a hit or a total mess, If a man can wear them without looking like a gmadiators it's ok . I love the leo-printed brothel creepers from the Dsquared² show.


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