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samedi 14 juillet 2012

Petit mot

A mes quelques lecteurs : Je vous ai pas oublié loin de là mais mon nouveau travail (aux horaires dingues) me prend beaucoup beaucoup de temps d'où mon absence. Le blog sera donc moins actualisé ces prochaines semaines !

For my few readers : I didn't forget you at all but my new job (with its crazy working hours) is taking most of my time. My blog will be less upgraded the following weeks ! I'll try to post the most I can so stay tuned Xx

Anja Rubik by Glen Luchford

mardi 3 juillet 2012

Chanel is back.

As usual the Chanel show is expected as the snow in winter. Today Karl Laferfeld didn't broke his promise. I've never been so into Chanel before this show. The show opened with a tweed suit as most of the time and was then followed by not very exciting pieces. Blazers, long coats in tweed or with patchworks visual effects on. The whole seemed too déjà vu. We could have been afraid of a safe collection, again...

Models: Jamie Bochert, Mirte Maas, Anja Rubik, Saskia de Brauw.

But all of a sudden the collection turned into something more crazy. There were  sequins everywhere which is Karl's obsession even on tights. This aroused our curiosity making us wanting more and more of those crazy stuffs. Even this long sequined dress with pompoms sewed on  looked fab on the runway (not sure it will find its way to customers but Anna Dello Russo). 

Models: Sara Blomqvist, Julia Nobis, Mirte Maas, Meghan Collison.

 An amazing collection of blazers in the four shades of the show : black and white, grey and pink. Some outfits were risque while other were very safe. 

Models: xxx, Kendra Spears, Kati Nescher, xxx.

And some classic features of the house were seen as see-through blouses and extra long dresses with different shades of chiffon and tulle details.

Models: Kasia Struss, Marte Van Haaster, Anja Rubik.

Anyway as the silhouettes followed, the different shades softened, from coal to mouse grey and from raspberry to baby pink. It then  turned into pastel colours and finally into that statuesque and majestic white bridal gown. All the collection looked so pure, was he inspired by the Snow White wave ? 

Model: Lindsey Wixon.

It has been a while since we hadn't seen a Chanel show that amazing as the two last collections (rtw fall winter 2012 and resort 2013) were creativity lacking and on the edge of absolute weirdness. We hope Mr.Lagerfeld will stay in this perspective much more interesting. Here are our favourites (it was a tough thing to pick only few).

Models: Sui He, Kendra Spears, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Caroline Brasch Nielsen.

More favourites: Aymeline ValadeXiao Wen JuAndie ArthurSui Heunkown model.

lundi 2 juillet 2012

Christian Dior Haute Couture fall winter 2012-13

Today was big day for Raf Simons. It was his first show for Dior as a creative director so the pressure was at its highest point. The most influents people of the industry were attending the show. Among them : Tim Blanks, Edward Enniful, Franca Sozzani and Alber Elbaz. After 20 minutes of waiting, the music started and then that was it. The show opened with a black suit. The designer added some volume to the lower part of the jacket so that the hips looked more shaped. Red lips and green eyelashes nothing else, very minimalistic.

The next outfits followed and well it was um...boring even the audience looked sheepish. I was complaining about B.Gaytten but now I'm almost missing him. While I was pretty excited to  see what Raf Simons will do and how he would redefine the Dior aesthetic I've been a kind of disappointed. Everything from the proportions and the materials was screaming Jil Sander and not Dior at all. Especially the pants and the maxi skirts. Most of the outfits rather looked like ready-to-wear than Haute Couture.

Some of the outfits were too Jil Sander like because of the shapes...

Models: xxx,xxx, Sigrid Agren, Vika Faleeliva.

...while others were typically Dior. The coats and jackets looked good with those mettalic belts that underlined models's waist. Embroidered dresses were very elegant and classy. 

Models: Kinga Rajzak, Nastya Kusakina, xxx, xxx.

What it is complicated is that J.Galliano had a so big impact that most of people don't see the difference between J.Galliano and Dior real aesthetic. And that's why we found ourself disapointed with Bill Gaytten first collection while in fact he was doing a pretty good job and fitting the essence of the house.What we also have to not forget is that it is difficult for any designer who works for another house to find the right balance between the of the brand he's working for and his own vision and aesthetic. 

So it was not a bad collection but a safe one .Moreover it is a transitional period for Dior so it is hard to have a real opinion about the collection. It is as if Raf Simon was building the fundaments of the new era of the House. So let's give him a break and see what'll do next season.

Here are my favorite looks of the show: 

Models: Suvi Koponen, xxx, Julia Nobis, Jac.

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