Today was big day for Raf Simons. It was his first show for Dior as a creative director so the pressure was at its highest point. The most influents people of the industry were attending the show. Among them : Tim Blanks, Edward Enniful, Franca Sozzani and Alber Elbaz. After 20 minutes of waiting, the music started and then that was it. The show opened with a black suit. The designer added some volume to the lower part of the jacket so that the hips looked more shaped. Red lips and green eyelashes nothing else, very minimalistic.
The next outfits followed and well it was um...boring even the audience looked sheepish. I was complaining about B.Gaytten but now I'm almost missing him. While I was pretty excited to see what Raf Simons will do and how he would redefine the Dior aesthetic I've been a kind of disappointed. Everything from the proportions and the materials was screaming Jil Sander and not Dior at all. Especially the pants and the maxi skirts. Most of the outfits rather looked like ready-to-wear than Haute Couture.
Some of the outfits were too Jil Sander like because of the shapes...1. 2. 3. 4.
Models: xxx,xxx, Sigrid Agren, Vika Faleeliva.
...while others were typically Dior. The coats and jackets looked good with those mettalic belts that underlined models's waist. Embroidered dresses were very elegant and classy.
Models: Kinga Rajzak, Nastya Kusakina, xxx, xxx.
What it is complicated is that J.Galliano had a so big impact that most of people don't see the difference between J.Galliano and Dior real aesthetic. And that's why we found ourself disapointed with Bill Gaytten first collection while in fact he was doing a pretty good job and fitting the essence of the house.What we also have to not forget is that it is difficult for any designer who works for another house to find the right balance between the of the brand he's working for and his own vision and aesthetic.
So it was not a bad collection but a safe one .Moreover it is a transitional period for Dior so it is hard to have a real opinion about the collection. It is as if Raf Simon was building the fundaments of the new era of the House. So let's give him a break and see what'll do next season.
Here are my favorite looks of the show:
Models: Suvi Koponen, xxx, Julia Nobis, Jac.